Ihr Warenkorb ist leer
Ihr Warenkorb ist leerChristophe MOULIN
Bewertet in Frankreich am 7. Januar 2025
mélangé avec de la resine std d'autres marques, trés cassante, permet de retrouver quelque chose de correct voir bon ... Env20/30% à ajouter.
Konstantin Kurochkin
Bewertet in Deutschland am 4. April 2025
Achtung, es handelt sich nur um 2 Liter nicht je 2 Liter. Der Preis 67,99EUR ist echt Wucher für 2 Liter.
Daro
Bewertet in Deutschland am 3. März 2024
Für den 3D Druck fürs Tabletop super geeignet. Der Geruch ist minimal.Das Resin lässt sich nach dem Aushärten noch gut biegen wenn man das möchte. Selbst wenn eine Figur auf den Boden fällt hält das Resin und nichts bricht ab. Dazu preislich wirklich gut!
anok
Bewertet in Deutschland am 29. Juni 2024
Everything printed with this resin broken and cracked after half year.Thats the the worst when painted miniatures then they suddenly burst.
Eduardo Antonio Font Gutiérrez
Bewertet in Spanien am 28. Juni 2024
Funciona mejor que las otras marcas y tiene más resistencia a la rotura, aunque tarde o temprano termina rompiendo si se flexiona mucho, y probando a flexionar con días de diferencia ...Es cuestión de hacer pruebas
Hephairis
Überprüft in Belgien am 2. März 2024
La ou les résines habituelles cassent comme du verre au choc , cette résine permet une impression clean sans trace , avec une solidité énorme , tout en ne brisant pas au choc .De même , l'impression de fines couches permet de rendre la piece Flexible (
Steve
Bewertet in den USA am11. Februar 2024
I've updated my review after discovering some stuff I didn't realize before I wrote it. I'm keeping the old review in case anyone else has similar troubles.The problems described below as it turns out are not the resin per se. It was a problem with my printer.I have a Creality Halot Mage. The Halot Mage has a super bright light, probably one of the brightest on the market. This resin seems to be a lot more sensitive to UV than Sunlu's other resins and that means three things.You need to dial the light duration back and the light intensity and you need to use a new FEP for the most mileage.The first issue was with the FEP film. When I pulled it to inspect it after the first bottle, it was so cloudy that my light transmission levels were only around 50-75% and more importantly light was diffuse and scattering. Changing my FEP film fixed the light transmission issue and then I had to recalibrate.After running two dozen calibration prints, I've found that setting 1.5s per layer with 5 base layers at 10s for small items, and up to 15s for larger items fixed most of the problems. But I also had to turn down the light intensity to about 80%. This is because it was overcuring even at 1.5s, but at 1s and 1.25s layer completion was iffy.So here's my tips.#1 If you have a Creality Halot Mage and you've been using any other resin, change your FEP before using this. I'm not sure chemically what the differences are, but my FEP got awfully clouded once I poured this and this cloudiness causes light to scatter everywhere, smearing out the print and causing it to lose fine details. This stuff by itself doesn't seem to foul a new FEP, it's when it mixes with residues left over from other resins that the fouling occurs. I'd have never noticed if I hadn't just randomly decided to do a detailed cleaning on my printer.#2 Run calibration prints on the low end of settings and step up only if you need to. 1.5s with with 5 base layers at 10s to 15s seems to be more than enough to ensure build plate adhesion. Yet these are the manufacturer's minimum recommended settings. Most resins I've used need a number closer to the middle. I'm guessing this might be a difference between translucent and opaque resins in general, but I never had this issue with Sunlu Nylon so YMMV.#3 Turn your power down in your slicer to 75% to 80%. In Chitubox this is a setting under advanced, it takes a number between 0 and 255. I set mine to 200 for round numbers and it seems fine. By turning power down you're reducing the chance of diffusion of excess energy from the heavy pigments. This may not be necessary for black or grey. But the white is super white and that means it's reflecting all light in all directions. I would presume that black would absorb more with less scattering. I'll switch to black when I finally run out of white and let you know my findings.All the problems mentioned below were addressed with the steps above. So I'm leaving my old review in place to help people troubleshoot in the future.******************* Original Review *******************I've used a lot of Sunlu resins and they're usually pretty good but this is by far the worst I've tried.Maybe I got a bad batch? I got a heck of a discount on it. 4kg (2 white, 2 black) for $80. That's $20/kg so if it printed at all it was a great deal.I'm using a Creality Halot Mage 8k, with Chitubox slicing so YMMV.Here's the problem. If you don't use the manufacturer's recommended settings (Min 5 layers at min 30s per layer) nothing sticks to the build plate. You end up with failure after failure. This is the only resin I've seen that happen too.Usually when you get a build plate failure like this it's a weight issue, but here it seems to be a curing issue.If you don't give it at least 5 base layers it doesn't matter how heavy or light the item is, it won't stick to the build plate at all. I've had a 5g piece just peel away with 4 base layers. 5 is the minimum to get anything to stick.Ok with that out of the way. I've printed 40 objects, I've had 10 count 'em 10 that were what I could call successful. I count a success as it printed all the way without peeling from the build plate and the layers didn't peel or split.Of my successes all were fairly light weight, and extremely simple geometries. The failure here seems to be related to exposure time. The recommended per layer exposure time is 1.5s to 4s. You need at least 3 seconds and up to 5 to get decent layer adhesion. But of course the longer the exposure the less detail you can capture. So don't use this for anything that requires details.My final gripe.5 layers at 30s not only distorts the item by causing elephant foot, it also makes it darn near impossible to remove from the build plate. So there's no middle ground here. Either the item doesn't stick at all or you literally need a hammer and chisel to get it off.Now for the good...This stuff isn't sold as indestructible, but it is darn near is indestructible. I'm not joking, I had to give my "good prints" several hard whacks with a hammer and chisel. So hard in fact it required re-aligning my entire build plate. The items look great even after a few frustrating "slips" with the hammer.I'm printing both functional and structural components for robots. After being rinsed in alcohol and once they've had a few days to dry they are extremely tough. They are very flexible and durable. They stand up to a lot of abuse.In fact, the person that did the space ship that had a piece break off likely should try again but this time give it 48 hours to dry naturally, I'll bet it doesn't break even under that level of stress. I know mine sure haven't as long as I give them time to fully dry out.This is why all in all, I'm willing to believe that perhaps I got a bad batch.The experience I've had with this resin is not indicative of my past experience with Sunlu products which have always seemed to just work and to be what they say they're going to be.
Jetflieger
Bewertet in Deutschland am 11. April 2024
Ich habe dieses Harz für mechanisch belastbare Teile getestet. Es lässt sich leicht drucken, riecht wenig und ist sehr flexibel. Gut wenn man Teile drucken möchte, die man "gegen die Wand schmeißen " kann, ohne dass sie zerbrechen, doch haben z.B. kleine Gewinde (M3/ M4) nicht gehalten. Dazu ist es zu weich.Ich drucke bei für mich neuen Harzen erstmal einen 5x5x100mm-Stab und biegen den dann. Standardharz bricht wie Glas (kennt jeder). Hier konnte ich den Teststab mehr als 270° biegen, ohne dass er gebrochen ist. Selbst beim Knicken um 180° ist er nicht gebrochen (bei mehrfachem Knicken dann doch irgendwann). Sehr biegezäh.Für mechanisch belastbare Teile gefällt mir das Nylon like Resin von Sunlu besser. Ist auch schlagzäh und nicht spröde, aber stabiler, dass auch kleine Gewinde belastbar sind.Trotzdem ist das Toughness Resin gut für Teile geeignet, die elastisch sein dürfen, aber trotzdem stabil sind.Gutes Harz für seinen Einsatzbereich.
Sandro D'Autilia
Bewertet in Italien am 14. April 2024
Rispecchia tutte le caratteristiche descritte dal venditore, ne ho utilizzato già due confezioni da 2Kg e non ho fallito mai una stampa... consigliata.
Mikael
Bewertet in Deutschland am 25. November 2023
The resin can handle quite a lot of shock because it's really bendy, sharing the spot with TGM-7 as the bendiest resin I've tried so far at 50% elongation before breakage.It can print out super fine detail too. I've used it with Elegoo Saturn 3, which is a 12k printer and at least in my experience, the models that come out using this stuff look great.Any smaller models, for example the size of space marine terminators are practically indestructible and because the material is bendy, the more fiddly bits you have on the model the more durable it is. I dropped a wizard model down that was surrounded by sparks of lightning and it bounced up few times, almost like the lightning was a protective mesh and absolutely nothing broke.Just keep in mind that if you print and paint big, heavy models, basically nothing will save them from breakages when it falls to the floor. Even plastic model kits break if they're big enough.That said, even big models are of course better off when printed with durable resin, at least it gives them a fighting chance to not break as they fall from the table, and most importantly, being knocked over whilst playing wargames isn't enough to break anything.The only resin better than this in my experience is Ameralabs TGM-7, and it costs almost twice as much per litre,even when assuming you buy a big 5L container of it.
Harald Hochegger
Bewertet in Deutschland am 24. Oktober 2023
Die Belastbarkeit des Materials ist gut aber, man sollte den ein oder anderen Probedruck versuchen und erst Mal die "perfekten" Geschwindigkeiten finden, bevor, man viele fehldrucke erzeugt.Sonst ist es ein super Produk.
Wulfen
Bewertet in Deutschland am 19. Dezember 2023
Zunächst dachte ich, das "tough" im Namen wäre Marketing, aber weit gefehlt. Das macht einen riesigen Unterschied, die Drucke brechen kaum noch. Je nach Dicke braucht man sogar erheblichen Kraftaufwand, um sie zu brechen. Wenn, dann biegen sie sich. Drucke werden ebenfalls perfekt. Das schwarz ist tief und leicht matt. Mein neues Lieblingsharz zum Drucken.
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